There are certain things that Italians will not compromise on. Pasta cooked al dente. Watching the national football team with friends in a strict superstitious formation (sitting in the same place on the sofa as we did for the last match we won). Going out for an aperitif dressed to the nines, even if it’s just to the same bar we always go to around the corner. Or Ferragosto. For those who don’t know, Ferragosto is a ritual established by the ancient Romans to celebrate a well-deserved rest after working in the fields, which was later integrated with Christian tradition. But it’s not just an Italian holiday; Ferragosto is also observed in other countries, such as Spain, France, and Portugal, but I doubt it’s celebrated anywhere else with the same fervour brought by the Italians.
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“Where are you going for Ferragosto?” is the question on everyone’s lips every summer, surpassing “What are you doing for Ferragosto?”, because it’s the where that makes the difference. The sea, mountains, lakes and countryside are clearly the perfect spots, and even those staying in the city can avoid any Ferragosto shame by simply organising a picnic in the park. I doubt we are aware of it, but perhaps this urge to embrace the open air trickled down to us long ago from the good Emperor Augustus, the Roman leader who invented the Feriae Augusti from which this holiday originates.
Despite the simple act of turning on the lawnmower being enough to make us feel heroic – that’s why I’ve put learning to use a scythe on my slightly bizarre bucket list – we feel the ancient call of the countryside, the desire to be in contact with nature. And since we’re all a rowdy bunch at heart, we can hardly limit ourselves to a little farmyard party. DJ sets on the beach, belt grills, enough fireworks to make you howl, group dancing, and if you’re at the coast, you’re nobody if you don’t take a dip at dawn.
So you can imagine my dismay when, as children, my father would pack us all into the car on 15th August: “Because it’s the best day to travel.” When you’re small, you can handle it; after all, your parents are your world, as are the siblings who (like mine) force you into the middle seat only to complain that “you’re making us too hot.” That’s when the real struggle starts. What will you say when they ask the most important question of the summer? “On the motorway with Dad driving for hours and only allowed to stop if you actually start weeing yourself”?
In my teenage dreams, I spent Ferragosto sitting around a fire on some incredible beach, singing at the top of my lungs with my friends, and at one point even scored a kiss with the coolest guy there. I can’t tell you how happy I was at university the day one of my classmates told me her family was inviting me to celebrate with them; a boat trip first and dinner at a waterside Michelin-starred restaurant… need I say more?
Since then, I’ve almost always spent Ferragosto driving. I like knowing that while I’m burning rubber, Italy is letting its hair down, happy and carefree. The coastline flows past me, and I feel a little bit like the fairy godmother, watching over those who dance, laugh, eat, and love. And it comforts the sadness, the loneliness, the fears of those who are struggling with life.
It would be a beautiful thing, if it were really like that. I drive. I only stop when I’m desperate for a wee, and every now and then I feel like I can hear my father’s voice: “Change into third, that long bend will get you if you’re not careful.”